I made a friend a few days ago sitting in the cafe out of the rain.
It's hard because I want to be conversational right away, meet everyone, and talk, but I know that's going to take some time , especially for the Tibetan people living here to see that I am here to stay, not just passing through.

I still get homesick in the mornings, but I'm really enjoying class, and feel like I can do this. I'm already having simple conversations.

Finished up my first week of Tibetan in Bir.
Most of the people here are from Kham, or eastern Tibet.
Every morning, we spend four hours reading, writing, and speaking.
I never even fall asleep!
The afternoons are free to eat, talk, meet people, and study.
I gave some of the people in my program a "tour" today of one of the monasteries--
There was a beautiful set of thankas hanging on the wall depicting the terma cycle of Chogyur Lingpa, a mid-19th century major terton.

This past week, the monks were having a drubchen. This means "Great Accumulation or Practice," which is where the monks do Sadhana and ritual for several days to one week. They are in the temple all day and night. They go in shifts, so when some are taking a break, others keep the mantras and prayers going. The feeling inside is very intense. Imagine actually living in a Thangka painting.
Sometimes, all of the main monks are on break, so the lay people sitting in spinning their prayer wheels take over mantra recitation. I love seeing this integration of monastic and lay life.
What we are really not seeing at the museum is the wall murals. As far as a monastery goes, they really form the strongest visual statement. Most walls are covered floor to ceiling with depictions of Lamas, Deities, stories, and more.
Being here doesnt feel like being with a dying culture. There are many many young monks, the art is constantly being commissioned, and while some outer forms are changing (khampas in blue jeans), I've still seen groups of people singing and dancing in purely tibetan style for the Dalai Lama's birthday.
Today was guru rinpoche day-- there was some great cham dancing in the afternoon.
Settling in yet still a little sad. Hope all is well.